What pitfalls should I watch for when replacing front brake pads on 2015 Camry?

[MasonD]

I'm planning to replace the front brake pads on my 2015 Toyota Camry this weekend for the first time, and I've watched several tutorials but still have some practical concerns. I've purchased the pads and have a basic socket set, C-clamp, and jack stands. For those who have done this job, what are the common pitfalls I should avoid, especially with compressing the caliper piston and dealing with any potential seized slider pins? Is there a specific break-in procedure for the new pads that you recommend, and how can I visually confirm the rotors are still in good enough condition to reuse? I'm also unsure about the torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts.

[EricH]

Two quick practical notes before you start: (1) Piston compression. Do it slowly and evenly with a C‑clamp or a dedicated piston compressor tool, and keep the rubber boot seated. If the piston won’t retract evenly or you hear creaking, stop and inspect for a sticking caliper or seized slider pins. (2) Slider pins. If you feel any roughness when moving the caliper, pull the caliper, remove the pins, clean with brake cleaner, inspect the boots, and lubricate the pins with a high‑temperature silicone brake grease. If the pins are badly corroded, replace the hardware. After reinstalling, pump the brake pedal to seat the pads and check the fluid level.”

[KevinH]

“Break‑in (bedding) approach should be conservative. Do 6–8 light to moderate stops from around 30–40 mph to about 5–10 mph with steady, moderate braking, allowing the rotors to cool between cycles. Then do 2–3 firmer stops to condition the pad surface, again avoiding overheating. Drive normally for the next 200–300 miles, avoiding repeated hard braking. If the pad manufacturer gives a bedding procedure, follow that exactly. The goal is even transfer of pad material to the rotor without glazing.”

[KevinAW]

“Rotor condition check in a pinch: visually inspect for deep grooves, scoring, heat cracks, or blue discoloration. Measure thickness with calipers and compare to the OEM minimum thickness. If you can’t resurface within safe limits or you see warping (runout) beyond the factory spec, replace the rotor. If you do surface, ensure you don’t remove too much material. A small amount of light scoring can be acceptable if the rotor still meets spec and is true.”

[George64]

“Torque reference (always verify in the service manual for your exact Camry trim). Rough ranges you’ll often see: front caliper bracket bolts around 80–110 Nm (60–80 ft‑lb) and caliper mounting (pin) bolts around 20–30 Nm (15–22 ft‑lb). Use a criss‑cross pattern if there are two bolts, and re‑check torque after a short test drive. Do not skip cleaning and lubricating the pad‑contact surfaces and the sliding hardware, and ensure you don’t over‑torque.”

[Steven91]

“Slider‑pin quick guide: remove the pins, pull the boots back to inspect for corrosion, and clean with brake cleaner. If the pins are rusty, chase them with a stiff brush, then reassemble with a thin coat of high‑temp brake grease on the contact surfaces (not on the rubber boots). Reinstall the pins and boots, move the caliper through its full range a few times to seat everything, and then perform a gentle test brake before highway use. Always replace any damaged pins/boots rather than reusing degraded hardware.”